The best hotels in Turkey for a magical winter escape
All have availability and are perfect for restoring mind, body and soul
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Although Turkey is best known as a summer destination, some places are equally good to visit in winter. I promise. Below, I’ve rounded-up five of my favourite Turkish hotels for a last-minute winter escape. All have availability in the coming months and are perfect for restoring mind, body and soul. Hope to see you there.
With its undulating hills and distinctive rock formations, also known as fairy chimneys, Cappadocia is one of Turkey’s crown jewels. Most visitors flock here in the summer months when the temperatures soar, but I think the winter is a great time to visit too. Yes, it is very cold but it’s also much less busy and there’s a good chance of snow.
As for hotels, Argos is the place to stay. Set across the village of Uchisar, it is the last word in understated luxury. Each of the hotel rooms has its own distinct identity, from the cosy feel of the cave rooms to the grandiose splendour of the terraced suites (some with a private pool, jacuzzi and hammam). Decor is pleasingly pared back, with a focus on nude fabrics and furnishings that complement the hotel’s natural rock features.
The dining scene is just as noteworthy. You’ll find breakfast and lunch in the hotel’s main restaurant overlooking the valley, and dinner in Nahita, a freshly opened restaurant serving hearty Anatolian cuisine made from locally sourced ingredients. Order the orzo with Tulum cheese and, for dessert, the flour halva with molasses (they are the Madeleine-like treats pictured below). Honestly, they are to die for.
In winter, fires are lit in the bar and heaters blaze on the outdoor terrace, making al fresco nightcaps a pleasing prospect.
There are currently only two treatment rooms, but a swanky new spa with pool and hammam is set to open later this year. Watch this space. Once you’ve settled into the hotel, make tracks for the local cave churches and Uchisar castle, the highest point in the region. And don’t forget to get up before sunrise one morning to see the sky come alive with hot air balloons. I promise you won’t regret it.
Located in Eskişehir, about four hours from Istanbul by car, is the jaw-dropping Kengo Kuma-designed OMM Museum. Since its opening in 2019, it has housed a rotating permanent collection of modern and contemporary art, as well as temporary exhibitions, artist commissions and installations by such celebrated local and international artists as Julian Opie, Elif Uras and Erwin Wurm. But the best thing about this place is its sister hotel next door.
The OMM INN is home to 14 minimalist rooms, arranged around a central courtyard, a café, a shop and a design store. Its ethos of sustainable luxury can be seen at every turn, from the natural materials used around the hotel to the café’s vegan menu.
Rooms feature concrete walls, in homage to the Modernist architect Louis Kahn, sleek wooden furniture and ambient lighting that adds a welcome dose of softness. There’s an all-round good feel about this place, making it the perfect base for an arty weekend getaway à deux.
My favourite discovery about Turkey so far is that there is skiing here — and good skiing at that. Yep, really. Located about three and a half hours from Istanbul by car is Uludağ, a small but charming ski resort in Uludağ National Park.
Hotels in Uludağ are a tad on the rustic side, yes, but Le Chalet has won me over. As the name suggests, it has an Alpine-inspired interior and ski-in-ski-out access. Rooms are basic but comfortable and feature all the amenities you’ll need. That said, take a travel pillow in your hand luggage (they are as hard as rock) and turn a blind eye to the carpets and scratchy gold bed throws.
One thing to note: lazy mountain lunches are not de rigeur in Turkey, so it’s best to opt for the hotel’s all-inclusive rates. The menu is centred around hearty Turkish classics such as dumplings, kofte, rice and potatoes. To my chagrin, Raclette is nowhere to be seen!
Le Chalet may not boast all the mod cons of Europe’s finest ski resorts, but the charm, affordability and truly unpretentious vibe more than make up for it.
It’s hard to imagine a lovelier hotel along the Turquoise Coast than Maçakizi, meaning Queen of Spades. Located about 40 minutes by car from Bodrum airport, it is surrounded by pine-clad hills and sprawls across four levels, each boasting gorgeous views of the shimmering sea below.
The hotel is now run by Sahir Erozan, the son of the original founder, Ayla Emiroglu, and is a go-to among Euro yachters, well-heeled Istanbulites and A-list models, actors and singers.
Harnessing his mother’s distinctive take on laid-back luxury, Erozan relocated the hotel to its current Türkbükü location and renovated it with the demands of a new generation of luxury traveller in mind. The result is a chic home-from-home with a focus on top-notch food, delicious cocktails and a bohemian brand of Turkish hedonism.
While the summer months are undoubtedly the most popular with guests, the hotel is now open during much of the low season too (excluding February 2023). In winter, you’ll find guests cocooned in cosy blankets or huddled around the fire pit, sipping raki while stroking the hotel’s motley crew of cats and dogs. If it rains, beeline for the hotel’s swanky screening room or well-equipped gym. Make sure to enquire about their treatments, too.
Come evening, guests flock to the main restaurant, where Turkey’s star chef Aret Sahakyan serves a medley of delicious dishes, ranging from fresh octopus to Turkish classics like lahmacun and manti (traditional egg pasta dumplings with ground beef).
Istanbul is a year-round destination, but it’s much less busy in winter when the days are shorter and temperatures are cooler. And this is worth making the most of. Fewer selfie-waving tourist groups make navigating the windy, hilly streets of old Istanbul a whole lot easier — and much more pleasant. And I would know. Our old flat was in Balat, one of the most popular spots on the tourist beat.
There are of course numerous dazzling hotels in Istanbul, but most of these are blow-the-budget expensive. Enter Soho House, a stylish yet reasonably priced base in the heart of buzzing Beyoglu.
Though a tad dark, rooms are prettily furnished with a mix of contemporary and Turkish pieces. Bathrooms feature heavenly rainfall showers, Iznik-inspired tiles and Cowshed amenities. There is also a delicious spa and restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bonus?
Hotel guests have access to the members’ club next door (above), which is set in Palazzo Corpi, the former home of a Genoese merchant. The soaring ceilings, marble staircases, storied frescoes and epic views across the Golden Horn have cemented its reputation as one of the most beautiful Soho Houses around the world.
JOIN THE CONVERSATION…I’d love to hear your favourite places in Turkey & beyond. Perhaps it’s a chic costal hideaway or a well-located city-break spot? Let me know in the comments below. I’m always looking for the next place to go.