Hi everyone,
I hope you are all well. September was a whirlwind of activity in London, Istanbul & beyond. I chatted all things Lalanne with a Christie’s design specialist in Paris, whizzed around Contemporary Istanbul, nipped down to Bodrum to review a swanky nature-inspired hotel (more on this coming soon), and spent lots of time catching up with friends and family in the UK.
Now to October, which is my favourite month of the year. Not only because it’s the busiest and most exciting time for me work-wise but also because it marks the start of cosy season and dare I say it…the countdown to Christmas.
Which leads me nicely to luxury beauty advent calendars. Believe it or not, now’s the time to splurge on the ultimate festive treat as the best ones sell out way in advance of December. My personal favs include Liberty’s beauty advent calendar and Jo Malone’s gingerbread-inspired calendar filled with festive fragrances and much-loved classics including their English Pear & Freesia body cream. Alternatively, why not make your own with these hand-made advent calendar bags?
Below, you’ll find my October edit of things to know in the two cities I call home, from three must-see exhibitions at Tate to Istanbul’s swankiest roof terrace. Plus, scroll on for details of a new book exploring the life, art & fashion of YSL. As ever, please let me know what you’d like to see more of by sending me a DM or commenting below. If you enjoy The Istanbulist, please do share it with your friends or hit the like button in the banner above.
If you’d like access to all articles including curated travel guides (like these on Sifnos & Portugal), consider becoming a paid subscriber by hitting the blue button below. Your support really does mean the world to me as it allows me the time each week to curate and write The Istanbulist for you.
Love Lucy Xx
Frieze Week & beyond
Various dates & times, Various locations across London
For one week in October, collectors, curators, gallerists and the art glitterati from around the world descend on London for an all-singing, all-dancing art extravaganza. The star attraction is of course Frieze London (11 — 15 October), the capital’s leading contemporary art fair which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year.
Running alongside Frieze London and neighbouring Frieze Masters and Frieze Sculpture is a rich programme of exhibitions and talks that continue well beyond the end of Frieze. The choice of things to see and do can be overwhelming, so below I’ve rounded-up the events I’m most looking forward to:
Early Works by Christo, 6 — 22 October, Spitalfields area. This bijou show in a Grade II–listed Georgian house inaugurates Gagosian Open, a new programme of off-site projects that brings remarkable artworks to unusual settings.
Georg Baselitz at the Serpentine, 5 October 2023 — 7 January 2024. The Serpentine’s first solo exhibition of Baselitz’s work presents 10 wooden sculptures which have never been exhibited before alongside 68 related drawings rendered in pencil, pen and ink. It offers insights into his creative process as well as his investigations into the frailty of the human body. Not to be missed.
UVA: Synchronicity, 12 October — 17 December, 180 The Strand. The largest exhibition to date of the London-based artist collective United Visual Artists (UVA) features eight large-scale immersive installations, including a number of newly commissioned works that explore our perception of space and time and challenge our sense of reality. Prepare for sensory overload.
Nicole Eisenman, 11 October 2023 — 14 January 2024, Whitechapel Gallery. Divided into eight chronological and thematic chapters, the first UK survey of work by Nicole Eisenman includes around 100 paintings, drawings and sculptures dating from 1992 to the present day. It seeks to cast new light on her multi-disciplinary practice which explores the ever-changing nature of public life.
STAY: The ultimate London bolthole for discerning aesthetes, Henry’s Townhouse has just six rooms, all inspired by Jane Austen’s favourite brother, Henry, who lived at the premises in the 18th century. You’ll find modern amenities nestled happily alongside sumptuous fabrics, historic artworks and quirky antiques. A nice antidote to contemporary art overload.
EAT: Book in for a decidedly indulgent dinner at the freshly revamped Claridge’s Restaurant, before enjoying an evening nightcap at the The Painter’s Room, a stylish art deco bar with a glorious stained-glass mural by Annie Morris. (The British artist is incidentally the subject of a major exhibition with her artist husband Idris Khan at Pitzhanger Manor until 7 January 2024.)
Art Collecting 101
I thought now would be the perfect time to look at what it takes to build an art collection. For all the tips and tricks of the trade, I turned to Liza Shapiro and Georgia Powell of Cura Art, the company they established in 2019 with the principal goal of supporting art owners with everything from collection care and management to patronage and philanthropy.
Whether you’re hunting down your first print or looking for new philanthropic initiatives, I’m sure you’ll find their insights both useful and practical. If you missed my recently published Q&A with them, you can read it now via my Substack homepage.
Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
Now open, Zeyrek district, Istanbul
Istanbul is also enjoying its fair share of buzzy art openings this month. Following a major 13-year restoration project, Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, a traditional Ottoman bath built between 1530 and 1540, has reopened its doors with a one-off contemporary art exhibition (until 5 November) that responds to the building’s architecture.
Curated by Anlam de Coster and installed across the expansive baths, the exhibition includes works by Hera Büyüktaşçıyan, Athens-based sculptor and painter Zoe Paul and Swiss artist Adrian Geller that explore themes of ruin, history and healing. Also on display are new commissions by Turkish artists Ahmet Doğu İpek and Lara Ögel. Following the exhibition, the baths will be reheated for public use from early 2024.
Three unmissable exhibitions at Tate Galleries, London
Various opening times & locations
Tate’s on fire this autumn. Landing at Tate Modern is the first major UK retrospective of Philip Guston in 20 years (until 25 February 2024). Spanning his momentous five-decade career, it presents his early paintings inspired by French surrealism and Mexican muralism alongside his influential abstract canvasses and cartoonish works.
Also on display at Tate Modern is El Anatsui’s highly anticipated Hyundai commission (until 14 April 2024). The new work, which was unveiled to the press on 9 October, was a standout highlight of Frieze Week.
Tate Britain, meanwhile, is home to Sarah Lucas: Happy Gas (until 14 January 2024), a new exhibition featuring more than 75 works spanning four decades of Lucas’s career, from breakthrough early sculptures and photographs to brand new works being shown for the first time.
Frankie
Galataport, Istanbul
I’ll let you into a little secret: I think I’ve found my new favourite cocktail spot on the European side. Located at one end of Galataport, one of Istanbul’s few pedestrianised zones, Frankie offers an elegantly designed indoor seating area with sweeping views across the Bosphorous as well as an expansive rooftop terrace with a gloriously stocked bar. The Negroni was standout as was Olly’s Whiskey Sour.
Dishes are a delicious fusion of Mediterranean flavours and Asian spices and are intended to be shared (if you can bear it!) with your fellow diners. Go on Thursdays in summer to see the resident DJ in full flow.
Yves Saint Laurent: Form and Fashion
Published on 5 October 2023
This glorious new book, which accompanies an exhibition of the same name at Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, explores the designer’s life, art and pioneering vision through beautiful archive images and informative texts by Cécile Bargues, Serena Bucalo-Mussely and Julien Fronsacq. Fashion Month is over for another season, so what better time to brush up on one of the industry’s founding fathers? Order now.
212 Photography Istanbul
5 — 15 October, Various opening times & locations
Returning to Istanbul for its sixth edition, the 212 photography festival is an international celebration of contemporary photography which sees exhibitions, workshops, talks and film screenings popping up across the city. It’s a great opportunity to see brilliant works by some of the leading names in the business including Eugenio Recuenco and Mous Lamrabat. The added bonus? It’s mostly free.
And finally…follow me on Instagram for more art, design & travel news from London, Istanbul & beyond. Until next time.