Lucy Loves: July
My monthly edit of the things to know, including unmissable London art, best alfresco dining and exhibition tickets to nab now
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Hi everyone,
As the season of summer holidays approaches, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the last six months and in particular all that I’ve achieved with this newsletter. Life moves fast and I think it’s really important to celebrate the milestones big and small so they don’t get lost and forgotten. I urge you to take two and do the same. It feels good.
Below, you’ll find my monthly edit of the things to know in the two cities I call home. Plus, the holiday destinations I’m dreaming about. I will be sending out a questionnaire in the coming weeks to see what you like most about this newsletter and what you’d like to see more of. In the meantime, thank you again for joining me on this cultural adventure from London to Istanbul. Please do spread the word and share The Istanbulist with your friends. Your support really does mean the world to me.
It’s your last chance to catch…
The largest John Craxton exhibition ever staged. Curated by Ian Collins (Craxton's biographer), Drawn to Light features nearly 200 works (some never seen in public before), including paintings, drawings, prints and personal effects, that chart Craxton's creative trajectory from war-time darkness to bold, brilliant colour.
It also reveals his wide range of influences from Picasso and Miro to ancient mythology, Byzantine mosaics and Ottoman architecture. It is a tremendous and long-awaited show that definitely merits a visit if you’re planning a trip to Istanbul this summer. It’s open until 23 July at the Mesher in Beyoglu. Can’t make it? You’ll be pleased to hear that it’s transferring to Pallant House in Chichester in October.
Listening…
To series 2 of Empire, a podcast presented by William Dalrymple and Anita Anand exploring the rise and fall of the Ottoman Empire. (The first series looks at the British in India, while the third tackles the history of slavery.) I’m no history buff but they present the facts, stories and events in a really accessible and engaging way. It’s not your typical easy, breezy summer pod, but I’m hooked.
Everyone’s talking about…
The Ashmolean’s new contemporary art exhibition series: Ashmolean Now. The first exhibition (8 July 2023 — 14 January 2024) juxtaposes new work by two brilliant London-based painters, Flora Yukhnovich and Daniel Crews-Chubb, who fuse art historical references with a contemporary painterly language to dazzling effect.
For this free show, they have drawn inspiration from paintings and artefacts in the Ashmolean’s own collection. It’s a feast for the eyes. Go on, make a day of it.
Dreaming…
Of escaping the heat because Istanbul is hot, hot, hot. And humid and sticky. And AC is not as commonplace as you would think. Which is why those who can flock south, notably to the glam hotels in and around Bodrum like Macakizi, Bodrum Loft and Hillside Beach Club. (The latter is great if you’ve got kids in tow.)
In these hedonistic playgrounds with pontoon sundecks, flowing cocktails and sparkling turquoise waters, it’s all about rest, relaxation — and late night partying. If you need some last-min holiday inspo, read my round-up of the best hotels along the Turquoise Coast for a stylish summer break. Move over Provence, to Bodrum we go.
Make a beeline for…
Black Venus (20 Jul – 24 Sept), a free exhibition at Somerset House in London examining the historical representation and shifting legacy of Black women in visual culture. Curated by Aindrea Emelife, the exhibition brings together the work of 18 Black women and non-binary artists including Sonia Boyce, Zanele Muholi and Kara Walker. Hop to it.
Follow me on Instagram for more art, design & travel inspo…
Eating al fresco…
Hurrah! The time has come to eat, drink and socialise outdoors. Happily, both London and Istanbul boast plentiful options — if you know where to look.
In Istanbul, make for Roka in Galataport, which has a great outdoor terrace with Bosphorous view, or treat yourself to a killer brunch in the covered courtyard at Cecconi’s in Beyoglu. Soho House members and guests of the Soho Hotel can also enjoy the recently opened Apheleia terrace restaurant, serving a simple yet sophisticated menu with a Mexican twist. Order the potato chips and black risotto.
In London, meanwhile, I’ve got my eye on the new rooftop terrace at Gold in Notting Hill and the leafy garden tables at Rochelle Canteen. If you’re planning to host at home, look to impress with Maison Margaux’s peony printed linen tablecloth or Summerill & Bishop’s linen heart napkins in pink, blue, yellow and green.
Art with heart…
For the 17th Istanbul Biennial, the artist duo Cooking Sections presented Wallowland, a collaborative research project that aimed to raise awareness around water buffalo herding practices as well as the water buffalo and wetlands around Istanbul under threat from urbanisation. Their biennial presentation at Büyükdere35 took the form of a shop, serving tasty Turkish puddings made with Buffalo milk.
Wallowland has recently reopened in a new location and will continue to celebrate Istanbul’s water buffalos and their herders through a public programme of talks and events leading up to Istanbul’s second Water Buffalo Festival on 16th September.
And finally…
Tickets have gone on sale for the V&A’s major autumn blockbuster. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto (16 September 2023 – 25 February 2024) charts the establishment of the House of CHANEL and the evolution of Coco Chanel’s iconic design style through exquisite fashion, objects, photographs & more. Tickets are selling fast, so hurry.