How to spend the perfect weekend in Istanbul
From must-see galleries and glittering mosques to foodie hotspots and rooftop bars, these are the places I know, love and am now ready to share
With its intoxicating mix of Eastern and Western influences, Istanbul is one of the most magical cities in the world. Over the centuries its strategic location has attracted the Greeks, Romans, Venetians and Ottomans, and reminders of their diverse cultures, histories and architectures can be found at every turn.
Over the past two years, I’ve explored bazaars and mosques, cutting-edge galleries and historic ancient sties, rooftop bars and hot new restaurants as well as artist studios and artisan boutiques championing traditional Turkish craft. Straddling the Asian and European sides of the Bosphorus strait, Istanbul is a sprawling, buzzing, dizzying hub of creative and foodie brilliance.
But it can be overwhelming if you don’t know your way around. To get you on your way, I’ve rounded up my favourite spots across the city to bookmark for your next weekend city break. Please do let me know where I’ve missed as I’m always after new recommendations. And, I’d love it if you could share the below with friends, family or anyone dreaming of a jaunt to Turkey’s cultural capital. It’s your support that keeps this newsletter going. Happy planning!
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What To See
Istanbul is known for many things, but chief is its rich cultural heritage. Historic highlights in the old city centre of Sultanahmet include the Byzantine-era Hagia Sophia, the freshly renovated 1,500-year-old underground Basilica Cistern and wondrous Topkapi Palace, the seat of Ottoman power for 400 years. (Be warned: you’ll need at least half a day to explore the grandiose buildings and extensive grounds.)
The Blue Mosque is equally spectacular and is now open once again following an extensive refurbishment. Other big hitters include Galata Tower (I’ve not actually climbed this but I’ve heard the view from the top is great) and the ravishing Dolmabahce Palace, situated along the Bosphorus.
The city is home to a contemporary arts scene that’s equally dazzling. Dotted around Beyoğlu are a cluster of cutting-edge art galleries including Galeri Nev, Gallery Zilberman and Pilevneli, as well as numerous theatres, music venues and performance spaces such as the AKM in Taksim Square. Other arty hotspots include Pilot in Cihangir, Anna Laudel in Gümüşsuyu, Sanatorium and Galeri Bosfor in Karaköy, and PG Art Gallery in Cukurcuma, which is also home to some of the best vintage shops in town.
When it comes to museums, beeline for the new Istanbul Modern. Designed by Renzo Piano, the waterfront complex is home to an extensive collection of Turkish art from 1945 to the present day as well as works by internationally renowned artists, including Mark Bradford, Tony Cragg and Olafur Eliasson. It’s also got a lovely waterfront cafe-restaurant. For a more traditional art viewing experience, whizz around the National Palaces Paintings Museum or the Meşher exhibition space on Istiklal Street.
If you’ve been to Istanbul before, then head to the Sabanci Museum, now home to the celebrated private collection of the Sabanci family as well as one of Istanbul’s finest restaurants. Another highlight is Arter in Dolapdere, a vibrant cultural hub housing works belonging to renowned Turkish art collector Omer Koç.
Where To Shop
As one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, the Grand Bazaar has an extraordinary 4000-plus shops, selling a kaleidoscopic range of textiles, ceramics, clothes and jewels. Its bustling centre can quickly feel overwhelming though, so go as early as possible to avoid the crowds. (Note: it’s closed on Sundays). While you’re in the area, pit-stop at the Spice Bazaar, which brims with dried fruits, nuts, Turkish delight and much, much more.
Glitzy Nisantasi on the European side is the home of designer shopping in Istanbul. Favourites include Nackiyé for gorgeous fashion and homeware and Désolé, a beautifully curated concept store founded by Danish siblings Oliver and Emilie Lassen. For more recommendations, I recently asked the brilliant Irem Kinay, aka Madame Malachite, to curate her ultimate guide to the best of Istanbul shopping. Click here for her favourite vintage hotspots, buzzy artisan brands and antique markets to hit up on your next visit.
Where To Eat
For a contemporary take on Turkish cuisine, it doesn’t get better than Yeni Lokanta. A favourite of discerning Istanbulites, it oozes sophisticated charm and offers an ever-changing menu packed with gutsy flavour and fresh ingredients. Yeni Lokanta’s star chef Civan Er also oversees a sister restaurant in London’s Soho, Yeni London, where you’ll find his signature dishes made from fresh British ingredients.
Another favourite is Frankie, which has an elegantly designed indoor seating area with sweeping views across the Bosphorus as well as an expansive rooftop terrace with a gloriously stocked bar. Dishes are a delicious fusion of Mediterranean flavours and Asian spices and are intended to be shared with your fellow diners (if you can bear it).
You should also add Spago by Wolfgang Puck to your hit list. Located on the top floor of the St. Regis Hotel, it serves an eclectic range of dishes with American, Asian and Italian influences. Go in summer to enjoy Istanbul’s pink sunsets from up high.
Then there’s Smelt & Co, which demands a pilgrimage to Balat, a quirky residential area best known for its cobbled streets, colourful houses and smattering of vintage shops. The restaurant’s unassuming facade belies its handsome interiors – expect high ceilings, linen curtains and natural woods. Equally seductive is the inventive menu, featuring a range of Turkish fusion dishes and Kombucha-based cocktails.
For cheap and cheerful authentic Turkish fare such as pide, iskender and manti (ravioli-style dumplings), head to the Hoca Paşa alley in Sultanahmet.
Where To Stay
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